More of Toronto: Wandering the Rouge

Okay, so maybe I'm just partial to the area that I grew up in, but to my mind, Scarborough really just is one of the prettiest parts of Toronto. In addition to taking my friend out to visit the Bluffs, we also went for a bit of a wander in the Rouge Valley, my favourite place to soak in some much needed nature as a kid.

A hiker on one of the meadow trails in the Rouge Valley.

At 40km square, encompassing the Rouge River Watershed that runs the length of the Scarborough-Pickering border and stretching from Oak Ridges Moraine in the north to Lake Ontario in the south, Rouge Park was Canada's first National Park, and now has the honour of becoming our first Urban National Park. It's also home to Canada's largest wetland at Rouge Beach Park (known to locals as The Estuary) and a number of national historic sites.

A view of the valley from one of the hill tops. Taken in mid-September when the colours were only just beginning to hint at a change.

While I love the Rouge year round, my favourite time to visit is in the fall when it truly becomes apparent just how the area got it's name. With this year's extended summer, the colours were only beginning to hint at a change when we were there. Fortunately for everyone else, that means the fall colours are still in bloom - and I'd definitely suggest that everyone take advantage of the lovely weather we've been having to enjoy them! 

Rouge Beach Park, where the Rouge River meets Lake Ontario. Favourite local fishing spot and summertime hangout.

One of the best things about the Rouge is that there is something for everybody, meandering valley-walks, relaxing beaches and more strenuous uphill climbs. There's even tobogganing for the kids in the winter. For more info on Rouge Park, conservation, how to get there and the view points and hiking trails within it, check out the official Rouge Park and Toronto City websites.

My favourite part. The Rouge Beach Estuary, part of Canada's largest wetland. This place is beautiful in the summer, but even more fun in the winter when it freezes over and local kids clear the ice for some neighbourhood games of hockey.

For those who don't live in the east end of the city, never fear, the whole Greater Toronto Area is dotted with (admittedly smaller) parks like the Rouge. Some of my favourites are out near Burlington and Hamilton. I find the aptly named Rattlesnake Point to be especially lovely.

Toronto!

I can't lie, part of the reason I have been so slow in updating now that I am back home in Toronto is that the prospect of trying to summarize 6 months and 7000+ photos worth of travel, flavours and experiences into a coherent body of blog posts is a singularly daunting one.  I'd also be lying, however, if I said that was the only reason. It's likely that an equal measure of my reluctance to post comes from the fact that being home after so long away always reminds me of just how much I love Toronto - it's crazy pace; quirky neighbourhoods; incredible mix of cultures; access to great art, drama and dance; the food; and, of course, my friends and family. While I love travelling and experiencing new cultures, sometimes it's nice just to soak up a little of home. It helps, of course, that I have a stunning view of the city from just outside my bedroom and loads to get done while I'm here. 

The lovely morning view of the Toronto skyline from the balcony off my parents' den (the floor of which I am currently camping on).

Though the classic reaction of all Torontonians to visitors stating how much they've enjoyed the city always seems to run along the lines of "Really?! Why???". I'm here to report that there are just so many reasons. Don't believe me? Head out to check it out yourself. In the spring, summer, and early fall, we have cultural and art festivals nearly every weekend. In the winter, we have theatre, Broadway shows, comedy, ballets and operas to keep us warm. We have access to nearly every food imaginable, decent museums, a plethora of unique neighbourhoods, wonderful parks, thousands of activities, a great lake, 4 distinct seasons, access to incredible nature not too far away and stunning foliage in the autumn. Really, what's not to love? While I'll unfortunately likely not have enough time to do too many Toronto-themed posts with the travel backlog I'm under. I definitely recommend a visit. And for all those of you who live here but claim not to like it, I encourage you to try something new, explore a new area or test out a new type of food. Who knows, you may just fall in love with it too!

A streetcar, possibly one of my favourite features of Toronto's transportation system, on Queen West. 

For awesome ideas on where to go when you visit, what to eat, current events or new fun things to try in and around Toronto, check out the super handy and awesome BlogTO.

Persimmons!

So it's now nearly December and I have yet to do a post on what has quickly become one of my favourite features of fall in Korea (see what I did there?) - Persimmons!

A 단감 (dan gam) or fuyu persimmon - washed and awaiting my consumption.

I have to be honest, before coming to Korea, I had little - if any - notion of what, exactly, a persimmon was. I think I knew that it was some kind of fruit, and I recall having some vague idea that people ate them dried, but I could not have told you where they were from, what they looked like or how they tasted (nor when they were ripe or why people ate them if it came to that).

One of the persimmon treas at Baegyangsa in Naejangsan National Park.

I am happy to say that all of this has now been rectified. I now know that persimmons - or 'Gam' (감) with a hard 'k'-like 'g' as they are known here - are an amazingly delicious and wonderfully fantastic fruit that no one should ever have to live without. I love them. I want to eat them all the time.  Not enough of an explanation for you? I suppose I could try to go in for a little more detail ;).

More persimmons, all for me! Their exteriors are waxy cuticles that are reminiscent of the skin off an apple - though slightly tougher - and just as edible. Many Koreans will peel and slice their persimmons. This requires more patience than I care to exhibit.

Before I go any further, I suppose I should mention that there are actually two types of persimmon available in Korea. Hachiya persimmons (떫은감 - tteolbeun gam or 'sour persimmon') are deep orange, sweet, soft and pulpy when ripe, but very bitter before that. By contrast, fuyu persimmons (단감 - dan gam or 'sweet persimmon') are lighter orange in colour and have a crisp melon-like texture, they are also (rather entertainingly because of their name) less sweet. Having not yet tried the hyachiya persimmons, it is the fuyu persimmons that have so captured my heart (and tongue). As far as I'm concerned, they taste exactly like Christmas - or, rather, how I imagine Christmas would taste were it made into an edible flavour. It's like having melon, pumpkin and cinnamon-y pie spice all mixed into a deliciously delectable fruity bundle. I was initially hesitant to give them a try as I am what is often referred to as a 'texture person', being rather picky with my food in that department, but I am so glad I did! When just ripe, fuyu persimmons have an apple-like texture. From there, they migrate toward melon-like as they get less crisp. Interestingly, just like tomatoes (which they actually resemble quite closely), persimmons are technically berries. Sadly they are only available for a very limited period of time, appearing at local markets in early fall and disappearing again around this time (early December). Happily, when they are around, they're around in an abundance - and I plan to eat my fill!

Beagyangsa & Reflections of the Fall

Last Monday, it was time, once again, for a teacher wellness expedition. As per usual at my school, this involved food and hiking - fortunately for me (as last Monday was the day after my 46km Jirisan hike), this time the hike was much more of a leasurely meander along stunningly reflective river-pools. 

One of the Baegyangsa Pavilions and it's reflection.

This particular teacher wellness hike saw us head out to the Baegyang Valley, home of Baegyang Temple (백양사), in Naejangsan National Park (내장산) - about an hour and a half north of Gwangju. Baegyang is famous for a number of things, the two most notable of these - particularly in the fall - are its persimmons (mmmm, persimmons! - more on those another time) and the spectacular colours of its leaves. I have to say, while I've seen a number of sumptuously coloured valleys in my time here thus far, Baegyang thoroughly deserves its reputation.

Looking toward Naejang Mountain.

Some of the riotously red leaves. I love just how many different colours there are in this one tree!

A doorway leeding to one of the cemetaries in the area.

A close-up of the path stones.

I just loved the myriad of colours in this shot.

Looking toward Baegyang's persimmon, or gam (감), grove.

One of the temple buildings.

Can't get enough of the combination of real and reflected.

Heading back from whence we came en route to dinner - which was comprised of surprisingly delicious prepared local roots and shoots.

A Long Trek - Crossing Korea's Jirisan National Park on Foot.

From the smallest to the largest. Last weekend I had the opportunity to hike across the 41km that comprises the spine of Jirisan (지리산 - Jiri Mountain) National Park. This to be contrasted with this weekend, which I spent largely doing nothing while lounging around my house reading novels ;).

The colours of the Hwaeom (화엄) Valley where we began our ascent. 

While the original plan had us hiking as a party of six, only two of us wound up actually doing the hike (the two boys dropped out early in the planning due to 'other commitments' and the other two girls unfortunately fell ill the week before). While I admit, the prospect of traversing 41km (46 actually if you consider the hike up to the trail head from our hotel and then down again into the village bus station at the other side) and 13 different peaks in only two days might be a little daunting, it was totally worth it - especially with all the colours showing at this time of year!

The colours along the road up to the Hwaeomsa (화엄사 - Hwaeom Temple) entrance.

Due to the time constraints imposed by having to work during the week, we decided to head out from the Hwaeomsa entrance at the western side of the park and hike eastward, ending our trek either at Daewon Temple (대원사) or at Jungsanni (중산니) in the east. This made it possible to hop on a bus from Gwangju to Gurye (구례) (1h30) on the Friday night and to take a cheap 6,000won taxi ride out to our pension near the temple for the night. (We had a Nore Taxi!(Korean kareoki) It was epic!) For the record, the Hwaeom Pension is great, hugely spacious, nice rooms with cooking facilities at very decent prices (less than 20,000/person). The rooms are traditional ondol-style (heated floor with blankets).

Hwaeomsa at roughly 7:15am.

We set out bright and early on the Saturday morning with the intention of trekking up to Hwaeomsa for a quick visit and then heading ownward from there. The 7km up from Hwaeomsa to Nogodan (1,430m) was arguably the hardest part of the trek. Beautiful, but hard. I'd previously seen it described as a 'long, slow slog' and when we started out, we thought that might be a bit of an exaggeration. It wasn't. If you want an easier route in, I recommend the 4.7km up from the Seongsamjae (성삼재) Pass.

This was a nice, un-evil, part of the path.

Getting even more beautiful as we rise...

Above to the point at which the trees have lost all their leaves.

The morning view from Nogodan (노고단) (1,430m).

Check out those clouds.

Walking the Dwaejiryeong Pass (돼지령).

Looking over the Piagol  Valley (피아골).

At the top of Samdobong (삼도봉), or Three Province Peak (1499m), so named because it represents the intersection of three of the Korean provinces - Jeollanam-do (전라남도), Jeollabuk-do (전라북도) and Gyeongnam-do (경남도).

Around mid-morning. Happy to have made it thus far!

The view southeast from Samdobong (I believe that this is the Baemsagol Valley (뱀사골)).

Heading toward Tokkibong (토끼봉).

From here on out, the route got much rockier - Hilary described it best as "the ultimate rock playground". So much fun! Ideal for those who like scrambles. The route also remained an awesome ridge walk for much of the rest of the trek to the highest peak, Cheonhwangbong (천황봉), the next day.

Just stunning.

I just couldn't resist. Something was definitely added by the drying flora at the top.

Look! It's Grandmother Willow's stony cousin in the background!

Heading down from one of the final peaks of Day 1 (I believe it was Hyeongjebong (형제봉).).

The view as the sun begins to go down (it was about 4:30 pm).

There was just something about this tree.

Once we realised how close we were to Byeoksoryeong Shelter (벽소령 대피소) where we planned to stay the night, we decided to dawdle a bit more and take our time on the paths. We finally made it to the shelter around 5:45pm, just before full dark, after roughly 10 and a half hours of hiking with minimal 5-10 minute breaks to see the peaks or munch on some food. We covered roughly 24km in that time. The shelter itself was a lot nicer than we'd expected (especially once you get used to smelling the toilet smell that emanates from the restrooms near all Korean mountain shelters). It was supremely warm, rooms were split by gender, and for an extra 3,000won (reservation was 8,000), we were able to get 3 blankets each (one to sleep on, one to sleep under, and one to use as a pillow). Lights out was around 10pm, with most of the other guests (particularly those without reservations sleeping in the lobby), waking up at 4:30am to recommence their hikes in the dark. We decided to set out at the much nicer hour of 6:30am.

The view from Deokpyeongbong (덕평봉) as the sun rises.

While we'd known from the outset that Sunday was going to be rainy, there's nothing quite like watching the rain you're about to be hit by as it rolls in.

Valley view somewhere along the nearly 10km between Byeoksoryeong and Jangteomok Selters. 

Entering the cloud banks. It was so windy at the top! Crossing saddles involved trying desperately not to be blown off the mountain entirely!

A bluebird on the steps. This was on the sheltered northern side of a peak. There were far more birds, awesome flora and fauna in general at Jiri than I have seen in any of the other parks. Jiri is also famous for being the home of the only wild Korean Blackbears left in the country.

While ridge walks provide beautiful views on sunny days, they are nothing short of cold in the wind and the rain!

SNOW! We also encountered hail.

The last bit to the top! The second half of the last 1.5km from Jangteomok Sheter (장터목 대피소) to the top of Cheonhwangbong was arguably the most technically challenging - particularly in the inclement weather - it was also the most fun. Much more like rock climbing/scrambling than traditional hiking. 

Hilary and I at the top! Cheonhwangbong (천황봉) is Jiri's highest peak at 1915m above sea level - it's also the highest on the Korean mainland - WOOT! This pic gives you some idea of the level of visibility at the top. We got here around noon.

Having seen the weather at the top and knowing what we would be heading into further down, we decided to take the shorter 5.4 km route down to the Jungsanni (중산니) park exit (the route to Daewonsa would have been 11.7km, plus 2 more into town), where we could hop on a bus into Jinju and, from there, catch the 2hour bus back to Gwangju. Rather entertainingly, we accidentally took a detour which added 3.4km on to the route (and still had to walk another 2km from there to the bus station). Fortunately, the detour proved to be a spectacular river-valley descent and we were so wet from the rain at this point that it really didn't matter (not only were we soaked through, so was nearly everything in our bags that wasn't bagged itself - my backpack was dripping!).

A beautiful temple entrance about halfway between Cheonwhangbong and the Rotari Shelter (로타리 대피소) on the way down.

Descending into some colour. Sadly, my camera was also soaked through at this point, making it difficult to capture the vividness of the leaves.

Overall a supremely amazing hike. Definitely well worth it - and definitely, no matter what the Koreans say, do-able as a two day journey. Oddly, to my mind atleast, we seemed to be the only ones doing the full route! Many of the Koreans we met - even those staying the night - expressed surprise at how far we were hiking, and we met no other foreigners. I definitely recommend it though. I want to go back!

Hike completed!

A few recommendations, if you are planning to hike Jirisan (or any of the other major mountains/national parks in Korea), definitely check out Korea in the Clouds for route, shelter and entrance info.

Another important site to check when hiking any of the national parks is the Korea National Park Website. Although it doesn't contain detailed trail maps, it does provide some idea of route lengths and difficulties. More importantly, it offers a free, English language mountain shelter booking service. Booking is made available at 10am 15days prior to the desired day. They book up within minutes, so be ready right away.

It's also important to note that, as with the other mountains, food buying options are severely limited after you ascend. Many of the shelters en route carry snacks such as water bottles (which you can refill at springs throughout the hike), chocolate bars, crackers and dry ramyeon, they do not, however, offer cooking or heating facilities. Any food you plan to eat (and anything you plan to use to cook it with such as gas, camp stoves, and plates) must be carried with you both up and down the mountain. With a Jirisan hike, it is especially important to pack what you plan to eat as, unlike the entrances to many of the other mountains, there is no where to pick up kimbap or other easily transportable, non-cook food. We found this out the hard way. Fortunately for us, the kimbap was just meant to add variety, we packed more than enough food to last.

Our route map. We crossed the spine.