Historic Hue

The view along the Perfume River in Hue

We decided to take the 4hr train from Da Nang (just north of Hoi An) to Hue - largely because I'd heard it was a beautiful journey. While the scenery was absolutely stunning, the clealiness of the train (I believe it was number S4) left a lot to be desired. Happily, the was not the case for our following overnight train (S20) up to Hanoi. That one was pristine.

The Thien Mu Pagoda (1601). Famous as the site of monk Thich Quang Duc's self immolation in protest of then Southern Vietnamese president Ngo Dinh Diem's anti-Buddhist policies

Located around 70km south of the Demiliterized Zone established between North and South Vietnam after the 1954 Geneva Conference, the Vietnamese city of Hue (pronounced 'hoo-way') is probably best known to the slightly older generations as one of the main sites of the Tet Offensive - during which it was held by the Viet Cong for 25 days. Tet is the traditinal Vietnamese New Year and, in 1968, the communist Viet Cong used the holiday to attack unsuspecting South Vietnamese strongholds, turning the mental tide of the war and making it clear to those back home in America that the anti-communist forces were not as assured of victory as they were being told.

The gorgeously sprawling mausoleum of Emperor Thu Duc (r. 1847-1888). It took three years to build. It also houses the remains of his empress and mother and was used as his retreat for the 16 years prior to his death. I can't really imagine living in my mausoleum, but to each their own...

More of the same.

Although the city was largely levelled during the counter to the Tet Offensive, leaving the present city looking largely like any other, there are still a great number of beautiful historic sites located along the banks of the Perfume River - largely elaborate imperial mausolea dating from Hue's time as the Nguyen Dynasty capital (1802-1945). Most of these are located in different directions on the outskirts of town, so although bicycling them is do-able, it can make for a long hot day - I got a scooter.

The ruined floor of a no longer existant building of the imperial citadel.

The Ruins of My Son

Located about 40km southwest of Hoi An, lie the Champa era temple ruins of My Son (pronounced Me Son). A sacred place for the Champa, who ruled what is now central Vietnam from around the 7th century AD until 1832, My Son contains a number of 7th to 11th century temple-complexes dedicated to the past and present ruling god-kings. It was rediscovered by the French during the French Colonial period and was actually fairly well preserved until the 1960s when it was bombed extensively by American B52s  attempting to flush out the Viet Cong who were using it as a base.

A Stela laying on an angle in front of the ruins of  Group B

Buried in the dense jungle and littered with bomb craters, My Son was definitely interesting to see - though difficult to get to without having your own transport or joining a tour. It's also advisable not to wander too far off the track as there remains a great deal of unexploded ordinance in the area.

A broken frieze from behind Group D.

Charmed by Hoi An

One of the fore-courts of a traditional 17th century Cantonese Temple.

With the trip up along the coast to Hanoi from Ho Chi Minh City seeming far too long at 30hrs, it was decided that we should split the journey up with a stop midway in the UNESCO World Heritage Ancient Town of Hoi An. It was in no way a choice we regretted making. In fact, though the city can get quite touristy around midday and has a bit of a preserved feel to it, nearly everyone I've met who has been (including ourselves) says they wish they could have stayed longer.

Boats on the Thu Bon River.

In addition to being only 5km from a lovely 20km stretch of white sand beach which attracts the visitors of today, the city's placement on the Thu Bon river historically made it and excellent location for trade. Somehow spared from the bombs that rained down during the war, the Old Town along the river front boasts beautiful old 15th-19th century Vietnamese, Cantonese, Funanese, Japanese and European-style trading houses, temples and assembly halls alongside museums, excellent but inexpensive tailors and an ancient Japanese covered bridge. On nights of the full moon (which we sadly missed), all the lights in the centre are turned out and the town is lit by lanterns floating down the river. All in all, the city just oozes a relaxed sort of charm that makes you never want to leave. I'm also told the food is delicious but wasn't able to judge for myself due to illness. Guess I'll just have to go back.

A traditional fruit seller markets her wares.

Saigon

With it's wide boulevards, urban atmosphere, colonial buildings, and activity-filled public spaces, Ho Chiinh City (formerly Saigon), particularly in the old quarter (still called Saigon), resembles nothing so much as it does a European city - particularly those in France. That is, of course, until you notice the scooters - and with somthing like four to six million scooters for the eight million people living there, they are somewhat hard to miss. Speaking from experience, I can also say that riding on the back of a moto-taxi (xe om) here is a far more harrowing than anywhere else.

A statue of 'Uncle Ho' outside City Hall.

Even just walking around central Saigon is pleasant - the atmosphere is a thoroughly enjoyable one to soak up. Sites-wise, I had a few favourites. The post office next to the Notre Dame Cathedral (told you) with it's awesome old-school map murals inside is definitely worth a peek in.

Saigon's Notre Dame Cathedral.

Likewise, the remarkably hideous-on-the-outside-until-you-recognize-its-ingenuity-from-inside Reunification Palace built in 1966 to replace the former French Indochinese governor's palace is possibly one of my favourite buildings of all time. I can not describe how amazingly light and airy it was inside, nor how 60s chic - both of which (though maybe less so the latter) are uncommon in political residences. The James Bond style roof top garden, bar, dance floor and chopper landing site were also a plus. As was the underground bunker in the basement from whence the Southern Presidents worked during the war. It was also here that the war symbolically ended - with a tank driven through the gates and acting South Vietnamese President Tran Van Huong taken to the radio station to announce surrender.

The not supremely attractive exterior of the Reunification Palace.

The interior of the Reunification Palace.

Finally, the somewhat biasedly presented, but factually correct and utterly heart wrenching, War Remnants Museum is an absolute must see. Documenting the atrocities of the Vietnam war (albeit completely one sidedly in favour of the North), the museum houses weapons, casings, photographs and stories of those involved as well as information on the war and a recreation of the American/South Vietnamese prison on Phu Quoc. Particularly devastating are the rooms dedicated to the ongoing effects of the use of biological and chemical agents, such as agent orange, not only on those (on both sides) who came in contact with it, but their descendants as well.

A woman in a traditional aojai walks past some of typical communist-style posters found all over Vietnam.

For a great side trip just 40km outside of Ho Chi Minh City, it's definitely worth checking out the Cu Chi tunnels - a network of over 250km of tunnels in which the Viet Cong (the southern communist guerrilla forces) hid out and lived for nearly 20 years during the war. 100m of the tunnels, along side model booby-traps, decoys and a shooting range, are accessible to tourists at Ben Dinh. If you go on a tour you will also stop at one of the government craft centres for the disabled. While I am opposed to the voyeurism involved in checking out the workshop, the work they produce is fabulous. While the tunnels have been widened to accommodate foreigners, even I found them to be on the unpleasantly tight side - and I'm tiny! Hard to believe anyone could live down there for weeks on end.

It should also be noted that Ho Chi Minh City (and Vietnam in general) is home to some absolutely fabulous food - special thanks to Jackson and Vanessa for taking care of us in that regard, you can come visit me for food in Toronto anytime!

The Floating Markets of Can Tho

Located part way between Ha Tien and Ho Chi Minh City, which act as bookends to the fan created by the Mekong Delta, is the Delta's largest city and busiest port - Can Tho.

Sunrise over the Mekong.

The last city to fall to the North Vietnamese army (on May 1st 1975, the day after the fall of Saigon), Can Tho is home to the (sadly mostly Vietnamese language) Ho Chi Minh museum, which depicts the valiant struggle by the local peoples in cooperation with the National Liberation Front  (Viet Cong) to win their freedom and reunify the country. Definitely interesting to see.

More famously, Can Tho is home to the Delta's largest floating markets at Cai Rong and Phong Dien - both of which get their start at the bright and early hour of 4:30am so that the purchasers of produce have time to boat their wares up to Ho Chi Minh City in time for the morning markets there. The action begins to wind down quite early, with action becoming increasingly more local and less frenzied as the sun rises, and dwindling completely by 9am.

The late(ish) morning action at Cai Rong

It's possible to either rent a boat and driver or join a tour from the pier in Can Tho in order to get a peek - I definitely reccomend the former, but be prepared to bargain. I got it down to ten dollars to have a boat take me out to Cai Rong for 4:30am and then wend me back gently through farm lined canals en route home. I also tipped the lovely lady who rowed me out (with a sprained ankle!) an extra five for making her take me out rather earlier than most tourists do and for treating me to snacks - I also saw some others buy their boaters breakfast as a thank you.

A banana and coconut palm lined canal off the Mekong.

Loitering at the base of the Mekong Delta in Ha Tien

For much of history, what is now Vietnam's Mekong Delta actually belonged to Cambodia under the ancient Khmer empires. Laced with rivers and streams, boats are the the primary mode of transport in the area - though local buses-come-delivery-vans also trundle their way along narrow streets with rice paddies, coconut groves and water buffalo lining their sides. The area is beautifully verdant - especially in contrast to the dry season in Cambodia. I don't think I understood the true meaning of lush until I crossed the border! As many of the area's residents are ethnically Cambodian, there was little change in culture apart from the sudden appearance of the ubiquitous traditional Vietnamese conical hats.

The Beach at Mui Nai

While the most common way to visit Vietnam's Mekong Delta is on a day trip to the lovely towns of My Tho and Ben Tre from Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), I decided to hop on a local mini bus from Kep in Cambodia to the tiny Prek Chak-Xa Xia border crossing in the far south and hitch the 10km to Ha Tien.

A view of the buffalo filled rice paddies from Thach Dong.

What became immediately evident upon renting a bike and setting off to explore the area, was how few foreigners actually stay in Ha Tien beyond the few hours necessary to catch their next bus or ferry -and how glad I was that I actually had. I'm not sure what the best part of that 15km cycle was: buying roasted bananas encased in rice and palm leaves from local ladies on the side of a rural country road, getting into an epic splash fight with two adorable local 8 year old girls when I stopped off at the beach on the Mui Nai peninsula to cool down in the (rather warm) waters of the Gulf of Thailand, or exploring the Buddhist Temple built inside the bat-filled Thach Dong Cave. In any case, the day also ended wonderfully with explorations of Ha Tien's treat-filled night market and local kids playing bumper carts on the water-front promenade.