The Ruins of My Son

Located about 40km southwest of Hoi An, lie the Champa era temple ruins of My Son (pronounced Me Son). A sacred place for the Champa, who ruled what is now central Vietnam from around the 7th century AD until 1832, My Son contains a number of 7th to 11th century temple-complexes dedicated to the past and present ruling god-kings. It was rediscovered by the French during the French Colonial period and was actually fairly well preserved until the 1960s when it was bombed extensively by American B52s  attempting to flush out the Viet Cong who were using it as a base.

A Stela laying on an angle in front of the ruins of  Group B

Buried in the dense jungle and littered with bomb craters, My Son was definitely interesting to see - though difficult to get to without having your own transport or joining a tour. It's also advisable not to wander too far off the track as there remains a great deal of unexploded ordinance in the area.

A broken frieze from behind Group D.

The Angkor Ruins

Being me, one of the main objectives of my going to visit Cambodia was to see the Angkor ruins up near Siem Reap. Although most people are aware of the World Heritage Site (and Wonder of the World) that is Angkor Wat, few are aware that the Angkorian ruins in the area cover hundreds of square kilometers, with many ranging even further afield. The Angkorian Empire (AD 802 -1431) did, after all, at it's height cover all of what is now Cambodia and Laos as well as most of Thailand and much of Vietnam. Fortunately, my mother, with whom I was travelling at the time, is similarly interesting in archaeology and, so, we not only got one, but three days, to explore the temples in the area - including Banteay Srei to the North and the Roluos group to the East. Sadly we didn't have time to make it to the temples further up the mountains to the north, but they are meant to be especially beautiful in wet season, which it was not. Below is a selection of some of my favourite sites.

Main Site

One of the five  four-headed gates into Angkor Thom. Angkor Thom is the largest of the ruin complexes, covering an area of 9km square and encompassing many other sites within its walls. Definitely a must see. My favourite temple inside was Bayon - imagine a pyramid topped with 54 many-headed towers. The Terrace of the Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King with their many carvings were also nice to see. Angkor Thom itself was built by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th and early 13th centuries AD and was the last great Khmer (Angkorian) Capital, housing up to as many as a million inhabitants.

An end of day photo of Angkor Wat itself. This photo was actually taken on my birthday after I had cycled back up from town to watch the sunset, catching it from the uncrowded back gate. Angkor Wat is the most complete of the temples in terms of what remains. It was built in the mid 12th century as the temple and mausoleum for King Suryavarman II and is home to incredible bas reliefs which cover the hundreds of meters of walls in the first gallery which surrounds the inner temple. As the temple was initially dedicated to Vishnu, the reliefs depict scenes from central Hindu myths such as the Ramayana and the Churning of the See of Milk.

A view of the Jungle from atop the towers of the central  sanctuary.

One of the still red-painted Apsara dancers carved on the walls. Apsara is a traditional Indian-Indochinese dance form with holy connotations for both Buddhists and Hindus in the region and, so, such carvings are found undestroyed on many of the temples. The red colour comes from when all the temples were converted (re-converted in some cases) to Buddhism in the 16th and 17th centuries - long after the area had ceased to be the Khmer capital. ( The capital was moved south after the invasion of Siam in 1431.)

Ta Phrom - easily one of my favourite sites as it's so overgrown with massive trees! It was originally built by Jayavarman VII around the same time as Angkor Wat and was dedicated as a Buddhist Monastery. Subsequent (re-) conversion of the area to Hinduism in the period following meant that many of the carved Buddha's on the walls were defaced, destroyed, or turned into Hindu ascetics as at most of the other temples from the period. Based on an inscription at the site, it appears that twelve thousand people lived at the monastery with almost eighty thousand villagers supporting them. 

Banteay Kdei. Another of my favourites. Dating from the same period and located close to Ta Phrom, but not quite as tree covered, Banteay  Kdei is still a lot more rubble-filled and less reconstructed than many other temples. It is also less touristed, giving it a much more peaceful air.

Looking down from the top of Phnom Bakheng. Built on top of a small mountain, it is actually the oldest temple at the main site, built by Yasovarman I in the late 8th century AD. As the hill on which it's built rises 60m above the rest of the plain, Phnom Bakheng provides a wonderful view of Angkor Wat and other temples rising out of the jungle as well as of the Tonle Sap lake to the south. Strangely (to me at least as it lies northwest of it) the site gets flooded with tourists in the late afternoon who hike up to watch sunset over the Angkor Wat, leaving it nearly empty in the early morning and throughout the day.

North Group

Banteay Srei might be one of the prettiest of the Angkor Temples. Built in the  10th century, it;s like a pink sandstone, much more delicately carved version of some of the later temples. Definitely worth visiting (possibly after you've seen the others so that you have something to compare it to), it lies 30km north of the main sites through some great countryside (I wouldn't recommend cycling it (we certainly didn't) unless you have a lot of energy and most of the day). The Mine Museum is also on the way.

Roluos Group

Before the capital was at Angkor, it was a dozen or so kilometers east of Siem Reap at Rulous. The Rulous group is now comprised of three main sites: Lolei (not pictured here but which sports adorable tufts of hair-like grass on top of its four towers and is home to a Buddhist monastery, orphanage and language school),  Preah Ko and Bakong.

Built as a Hindu funerary temple for his ancestors by Indravarman the first, Preah Ko is a fairly small site. The best part about it is Dy Proeung's stone carving workshop opposite. A master architect and carver who survived the Khmer Rouge purgings, now 80-some odd year old Dy Proeung has carved miniatures (which are still several meters large) of many of the main temples. He was even recognised by the former king for his work. Go visit him.

On of my favourite of all the temples, this is Bakong (with my mother in the foreground).  The oldest 'temple mountain' (pyramidal temple) in Cambodia, it has some delightful statues, nice crumbly bits, a lovely moat, beautiful flowers, stairs on every side and many, many fewer tourists than the other sites. As it's the oldest, the carvings also differ, with many of the women on the central towers doing things other than dance.

In terms of getting to the temples from Siem Reap. A number of options are available. You can easily hire a tuk-tuk for the day for up to four people (should be around $20-$25 US for the day depending on the number of people and whether or not you are making your poor driver wake up for sunrise), rent motorbikes (not sure of the price), join a tour, or, my personal favourite way as the area is mostly flat, rent a bike ($2-5 US/day depending on the quality) and cycle. Bear in mind that if you are cycling, the closest ruins are 10km from the city (took about 23 mins on a not-great-bike) and cover an area much larger than that - in other words, if you are cycling, bring a lot of water and sunscreen and be prepared to take some rests in the shade.  It's also possible to hire guides for the day ($20-25 US for English, other languages are more expensive, add five dollars for sunrise, likely more if you expect them to cycle with you). Most of the local children around the ruins sell knockoff guide books with excellent info in them if you want to do it yourself. Temples are all open 5am - 6pm (except Banteay Srei which closes an hour earlier). Entry to the sites (including the main site, Roluos group and northern groups) is $20 US for one day, $40 for 2 or 3 and $60 for 7, you can enter and exit as many times as you want per day with no penalty.

Siem Reap itself is very much a tourist town, but a cute one for all that. Other things to do are to explore the countryside or take a boat ride out on the Tonle Sap (which floods so much in rainy season that it becomes Asia's largest freshwater lake) to visit the floating villages (be prepared to pay $10-20 US/person).

Why you should Wander in Kyoto - Temples, Shrines & More

Imperial capital of Japan from AD 794 to AD 1868, preserved from the bombs that flattened the rest of the country during WWII and home to 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Kyoto is the place to go in order to immerse oneself in 'Traditional Japanese Culture'. I never thought I'd say this, but there is almost too much to see!

The exterior of an unnamed temple backing on to the 2km Tetsugaku-no-Michi (Path of Philosophy) in northwest of the Higashiyama area.

Surrounded by the natural beauty of many lush mountains (and number of the smaller ones of which have been incorporated into the city, disturbing the otherwise strictly grid-like layout of the streets) and filled nearly to brimming with ancient and newer shrines (Shinto), temples (Buddhist), palaces and parks, not even the rain that I encountered on my first day there could spoil the beauty that is Kyoto - in fact, I think it may have just enhanced it. If anything, my only complaint (alongside that I did not have nearly enough time there to just sit down and appreciate everything) is that many of the temples, palaces and parks (as well as the odd shrine) charge quite a bit for entry (usually around 500 or 600yen - 6 or 7USD ) and, while they are visually stunning and definitely worth it, a pre-paid tourist card or combination ticket granting entry to a number of the sites for an amalgamated fee might make some sense to implement.

The grounds of Heian-jingu just north of Higashiyama station. The massive Shinto shrine complex was built in 1895 to celebrate Kyoto's 1100th anniversary.. 

The Chinese-style bridge in the western part of Heian-jingu's gardens. Although I had to pay to get in to them, I think it was more than worth it - even on a rainy winter's day. 

Stepping stones leading across one of the ponds at Heian-jingu. My favourite part? Not only are you allowed to cross on them, you are expected to.

With Kyoto Station and the much more modern downtown Kyoto located somewhat in the centre, the city can be divided into two main sightseeing areas, Higashiyama in the East and the quieter Arashiyama are in the West. This having been said, there is also quite a bit to see in the centre, as one of my favourite temples, Nishi Hogan-ji (free and open 6am-4:30pm), was located just northwest of the station. Also in the centre, though quite a ways North from there is the beautifully gilded Nijo Castle with its exquisitely painted interior (600yen, 8:45am-5pm, no pictures allowed but oh so worth it) and, a even further north of there, Kinkaku-ji with it's ever-famous Golden Pavilion (no, really! First constructed in 1397, the present structure was built in 1955 after an overzealous monk burnt down the original five years previous). Other things to see in the city centre include the lively shopping street extending westward from Yasaka Shrine as well as the Nishiki Food Market just north of there. The Nishijin Textile Centre (free, open 9am-5pm) to the north of Nijo is also worth a visit for anyone interested in traditional Japanese dress. The centre puts on several free Kimono fashion shows per day, contains a small textile museum, provides weaving demonstrations and, of course, has a display and sale area for their products. I don't recommend visiting the Kyoto Imperial Palace, it's closed to the public and, while the grounds are extensive, there is really nothing there. As a note, many of the places I just mentioned are not within walking distance. Trust me, I walked. I recommend either buying a day pass for the bus (around 600yen) or borrowing a bike for the day.

One of the world's largest wooden structures, the gilded main hall of Nishi Hogan-ji  made it one of my  favourite temples in the city. Sadly, despite it's proximity to the station and lack of entry fee, both it and equally splendid, equally free and  nearby Higashi Hogan-ji seem to get left off many tourist itineraries.

Ninomaru Palace in Nijo-jo, or Nijo castle. Built in 1603 by Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa, first of the Tokugawa Shoguns, The exterior of the building may not look like much, but I would rank it among the top places to visit in Kyoto. The painted screens and ceilings inside are breathtakingly lovely (with many painted in gold) and the 'nightengale flooring' designed to squeak as you walk (even in your borrowed slippers) so as to warn off intruders, makes the experience even more interesting.

Kinkaku-ji's famous Golden Pavilion - originally built in 1397 as a retirement villa by Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, it was turned into a temple by his son as per his wishes upon his death. This is the 1955 reconstruction.

I was fortunate enough to be based in the Higashiyama area just to the East of the centre - most of the sites of which are within walking distance of one another - though if you plan to cover the whole area, be warned that it is a very long day. I was even more fortunate in that I managed to find an old traditional-style house - complete with tatami floors, futons, a supremely narrow staircase, an outdoor bathroom in the courtyard and old-style shoes to wear to get out there - in which to stay (for all those interested, check out Hostel Haruya, Higashiyama branch - the staff were wonderful). While I definitely recommend checking out some of the main sites in the area, I also recommend just wondering - I found a number of my favourite places that way.

The raked gardens of Ginkaku-ji, also known as the Silver Pavilion - although it was never covered in silver.  A fairly popular site, it was nearly impossible to capture a picture without people in it. The alternating bands of gravel in the front are said to represent the waves on the lake or sea, and the cone in the background the stillness of Mount Fuji by contrast.

The delightful cemetery and pagoda atop a hill at Kurodani  Temple. This area was so peaceful, and the view of Kyoto from the top of the hill so nice that i could have happily stayed there all day. As an aside, any traveller to Kyoto can't help but notice that many of the temples in the area are surrounded by cemeteries - in complete contrast to the areas surrounding Shinto shrines. A quick question to one of the English speaking monks I encountered garnered me the answer that the dead are considered as sources of impurity (in the sense of cleanliness) in Shinto and that purity is important when approaching the Kami spirits for help or advice.

The beautiful moss-covered gate at the stunningly dilapidated Honen-in.  Established in 1680 , this extremely quiet temple was stumbled upon as I was wandering off the Path of Philosophy.

The garden and Japanese style water-chain at Reikan-ji - another of the temples that I accidentally stumbled upon while ranging of the established Path.

Some of the painted screens on display at Reikan-ji. Although these are lovely, they  are nothing in comparison to those in Ninomaru Palace.

A traditional Japanese water drainage system, ensuring that temple roofs are not overwhelmed by the rain.

Yoshida-jinja. Located on a small mountainous hill in the northern Higashiyama  area, I stumbles across this one when I saw a red torii (Shinto gate) on a path leading to a wooded area while wondering lost in the back streets of Kyoto - streets which themselves are quite fascinating as they are filled with old-style houses.

Yasui Kompiragu, another of the shrines I stumbled across, this one located at the south end of the Gion district, northwest of Kiyomizu-dera. Hidden in the backstreets and announced only by stone torii opening on to the road, when I first wandered up to the temple I was greeted by the sight of people in full business attire bowing, crawling through the hole, bowing once more and coming back through before pinning their prayers onto the rock. Interestingly, when asked why this was done I could get no straight answer, seems the sanctuary is linked to everything from traffic to health to riches and marriage. Research on the net in English seems to suggest that passing through once should bring about a good relationship, and twice a good divorce. Research in french on the other hand, links the shrine, supposedly established in 656, back to health and the curing of epidemics. I'm hoping someone who speaks Japanese will eventually be able to clear this up for me!

One of my absolute favourite sites, and one I definitely suggest checking out is Yasaka Shrine in central Higashiyama. It's always free and always open, borders on Maruyama Park, is beautiful both night and day and always seems to have a steady stream of people passing through to throw a coin, ring the bell and provide the ritual two bows and two claps to cement their requests - be warned that if you also plan to ask something of the kami being worshiped, you should probably make sure that you purify yourself first. This involves first washing the left, then the right hand, and then rinsing your mouth. There are always nicely decorated basins with running water at which to do this - just don't make my mistake and poor your used water in with the clean! Another of my favourites was Kiyomizu-dera, or Kiyomizu Temple. Built into the side of a mountain a kilometer or so south of Yasaka Shrine, there is a reason this is one of the UNESCO sites (and only 300yen as well!). Just to the left of the Kiyumizu-dera entrance lies Tainai-meguri which offers possibly one of the coolest experiences in Kyoto as you descend into a pitch black cave to be reborn (100yen suggested donation, try to go down when you can be alone). The area between Yasaka Shrine and Kiyumizu-dera is also worth a wander - if not more than one. Filled with narrow lanes and shop sellers offering up a taste of their treats, it's here that you are most likely to encounter those who have paid to be dressed as geisha for the day.

Two lovely shop ladies up near Ginkaku-ji offering up sweet samples.

Red bean, chocolate, strawberry and who-knows-what-else filled  rice pastries. I was given so many of these to try while wondering along the shop filled streets that I was nearly dizzy from sugar consumption. My favourite remain the red bean - although read bean and green tea are also quite tasty.

A tourist made up as a Geisha poses for me in the  streets around Kodai-ji. 

And another, this one in the tiny, but enchanting Yasaka Koshin-do Temple. If you look to the left, you may notice what look to be small coloured balls hanging behind her. In fact, they are small plush Kukurizaru, or hanging monkeys, who are folded in half with their hands and feet tied behind their backs as a reminder to those making a wish that in order for it to be fulfilled, they must control their temptations and desires.

Wandering the streets leading to Kiyomizu-dera.

The sky opening to shine down on Kiyomizu-dera, with it's view of Kyoto in the background.

Looking back toward the pavilion at the entrance.

The entrance to Jishu Shrine. Although this Shrine is located on the grounds of Kiyomizu Temple, it is not technically affiliated. This combination of shrine and temple is not actually all that uncommon in Japan, with traditional Shinto and introduced Buddhism having a long and intertwining history in the country - particularly after  Toyotomi Hideyoshi brought the two closer together in an attempt to block Christianity from gaining ground in the 16th century. Interestingly, syncretism of the two religions was declared illegal during the Meiji Restoration of the 19th century (when the Emperor was nominally returned to power after centuries of rule by the shoguns) so that state Shinto could be used to reinforce to order of society. 

A woman prays at the main shrine in Jishu-jinja . Jishu is a popular destination for those seeking luck and love. I loved the way the riotousness of the shrine contrasted with the staid tranquility of the temple surrounding it.

Two stones of which it is said that, if you can walk from one two the other with your eyes closed  on the first try,  your true love is sure to be soon revealed. At the far end you can see a group of teal-clad Taiwanese students helping (and in some rather amusing cases, hindering) each other's crossings.

Located even further south of here (take the train or subway) is Fushima-Inari Taisha, a breathtaking temple complex dedicated to Inari, goddess of the rice harvest (and thereby sake and business as well). Established in the 8th century, the most fascinating aspect of the complex are its 4km of mesmerising mountain pathways winding under seemingly endless amounts of bright red (though some might call it orange) torii (Shinto shrine gates).

A stone fox, messenger for Inari, guards one of the gates at Fushima-Inari Taisha.

Beginning my wander through the never-ending red torii.

As for the Arashiyama region to the Northwest of Kyoto, while it must be lovely during the summer, located as it is on a floodplain surrounded by mountains, and preserved as an escape without many tall buildings, I'm sure it must be absolutely lovely in summer. In truth, by the time I made it out to Arashiyama, I was nearly completely templed-and-shrined-out. My chief goal in heading there was actually to pay a visit to the Iwatayama Monkey park. Located a-top a fairly steep though not overly tall hill, the park allows visitors to not only get close to Japanese macaques that are native to the area, but provides a beautiful view of the city as well.

We passed these two en route up. The keeper told us that they were two of the most friendly. Left to their own devices, the hundreds of monkeys on the mountain are surprisingly nonchalant about having people invade their home - provided of course that you don't go about provoking them.

Although it may not look it. It is actually I, and not this adorable little dude, who am in the cage. In order to allow visitors to safely feed the monkeys, they (both visitors and monkeys) have all been trained to understand that snacks are only given by caged people to free monkeys, and not under any other circumstances.

Looking out toward Kyoto from my people-cage. After sufficient time  spent feeding them, I want out to wander amongst them. They were just fascinating to watch. Sadly (or fortunately?), they did not seem to be anywhere near that interested in me.